1. Assemble Unit

   
   
   
   

2. Install Shelves & Divider

   
   

3. Assemble Face Frame

   
   

4. Install Face Frame

   
   

5. Finishing
   

   For this project we decided to go with Behr’s tintable semi-transparent deck stain in the color Wood Chip. I like using this because it hides a lot of the grain that can sometimes be not so attractive when staining plywood, and it waterproofs the locker all in one step.
   
   
   
   I also added some turf to the bottom. This was cut from a doormat I found on Amazon and looks great.
   
   

1. Research, Research, Research

   Before I even started I did a ton of research. With an investment this big, I wanted to make sure I got it right. Luckily there are a ton of YouTube videos that go over the different components required for a golf simulator in depth as well as reviews and comparisons. One of my favorite channels was Golf Simulator Videos where Jay has a ton of golf sim content and is very helpful. There are so many options for each component required for your simulator and, based on your space and budget, deciding what and where to spend your money on can be a daunting task.

2. Enclosure

   My space was a little unusual. It’s actually the side of a car bay in my barn/workshop. That being said, I didn’t want to permanently close that car bay off with a large enclosure. After looking into ways to build my own I ultimately landed at Carl’s Place where they sell everything required from a golf simulator. They even have a “Build Your Own Golf Simulator” design tool. I was able to customize the enclosure size and aspect ratio to fit my area perfectly (down to the inch!). Not only does it show you the viewable area but it also defines the total enclosure width, height and depth.
   
   
   
   In an ideal world, 16:9 is the best aspect ratio to give you that immersive feeling. I have an area that is 12 feet wide which would leave me with a height of less than 7 feet and I didn’t like that. Another option is the 16:10 option, this is better but still didn’t give me the height I wanted. Which brings me to the option I went with, the 4:3 aspect ratio. With a 12 foot wide enclosure, the height is now 111″ (over 9ft) which felt like it would be great for those high loft shots.
   
   
   
   Now the depth of the enclosure was a concern to me, I really wanted to minimize the depth to allow use of that car bay if needed. Therefore, I went with a 24 inch deep enclosure, which meant I was going to need some curtains on the sides and netting above to catch any stray balls.
   
   
   
   Assembly of the unit is very straightforward with a diagram noting pipe lengths and assembly instructions. The screen and enclosure fabric are installed with the included bungees and foam is installed with velcro. This process took an hour or so.
   
   
   
   On my enclosure package, I opted to purchase and cut my own pipes which saved me some money but they do offer pre-cut pipes for a fee. I also added foam inserts to prevent ricochet off those pipes.
   
   
   
   For the viewing area I went with the premium screen which is a 3 layer impact screen that has a smooth finish for a high quality image and reduces noise from the impact of the ball.
   
   Another thing I did to decrease the bounce back of the golf ball was to mount a couple of heavy duty moving blankets. As it turns out, this was a bad idea and resulted in a lot of clean up.
   
   
   
   After the clean up I tried again with a memory foam mattress topper. I found one that was more dense than most and it worked like a charm. I simply used the holes in the topper to zip tie it to a board and suspended it about 6 inches behind the screen.
   
   
   

3. Projector

   When it comes to selecting a projector for your golf simulator there are a few key features that should be high on the list. A short throw projector will require a shorter distance to be mounted from the screen to get a large image. This will prevent shadows from the golfer when addressing the ball. Another feature that should be strongly taken into consideration is the brightness. This is measured in lumens and I think the ideal target should be 5000 lumens or above. Regardless of ambient daylight, you will require some light to hit the ball and a higher lumen count will make sure that doesn’t effect the image quality.
   
   I happen to think I found the best projector for the job, the BenQ LK936ST 4K short throw laser projector, which is designed for this specific application with 5100 lumens and has a ton of other useful features.
   
   
   
   The 4K resolution allows the software to perform at its peak giving you the most realistic image. But even more so when you enable “Golf Mode” which corrects purple fringing using the blue and green colors from popular golf software and allows golfers to view the game with more natural reproductions of blue skies and green grass.
   
   
   
   Since this is a laser projector we will get about 20,000 hours of life whereas with a standard lamp projector, the lamps will need replacing about every 1500-2000hrs. Plus lamp projectors take time to warm up versus the instant on capability of a laser projector.
   
   
   
   The installation of this projector is a breeze. After using BenQ’s calculator to determine a position for my projector, I was able to fine tune it with the lens shift and corner fit adjustments.

4. Curtains and Netting

   Since the enclosure was less than the ideal depth, I needed to extend the sides and top. I did so by installing 1 inch EMT pipes that extended from the back wall and tied into the ceiling. Those pipes carry the blackout room divider curtains that will not only collect any stray balls but act as a sunlight barrier when playing in the late afternoon.
   
   
   
   To protect the ceiling I opted to install netting which gets connected to the enclosure, curtain rods and ceiling (using hooks).
   
   

5. Hitting Mat and Putting Surface

   
   The surface in front of the hitting mat needed to be level to putt onto. For this I ordered some putting green turf and laid that over 1 inch thick rigid foam insulation with double faced tape. It feels great to walk and putt on but the lightweight foam makes it easy to move if I ever needed to.
   
   
   
   The hitting mat I went with is the 5′ x 8′ Country Club Elite Mat. This is an amazingly realistic and durable hitting mat. If you wanted to save som cost here you could make a cutout for a small section to hit off however I liked the idea of feeling like I’m standing on the course.
   
   
   
   With the hitting mat and putting surface being only 8 feet wide and my screen being 12 feet, I needed to fill in the gaps on the sides. For this I though some thicker turf, to simulate the rough, would be a good accent and slow down any balls rolling
   
   

6. Launch Monitor

   
   The launch monitor is the brains of the entire golf simulator. This is what tracks the ball trajectory and provides club data. This is where my budget golf simulator fell short.
   
   For this simulator a lot of my research was pointing to the FlightScope Mevo+. It’s an accurate sensor for a decent price but after using it for a few weeks I decided it wasn’t for me. Here is why. The Mevo+ needs to sit on the ground 7-8ft behind the hitting area. This took up some valuable floor space and needed to be set up before every round as well as realigned when someone inevitably bumped it. It also runs on an internal battery which wont last a full round and had to be supplemented with an external battery pack or power cord. Another issue I had was that it connected to the computer via WiFi and that signal was pretty weak causing the unit to have to constantly be reconnected. Lastly, since this is a radar based system it tracks the ball flight but no club data. Furthermore, I was also getting radar interference from the mini split if that was on during putting causing the sensor to hit phantom long putts.
   
   
   
   So, the launch monitor that I went with is the Uneekor Eye XO. This is a big investment for any simulator but the accuracy, reliability and club data that it provides is truly unmatched. The unit is mounted up and out of the way, 10 feet above and 3.5 feet in front of the tee. It also is hardwired to the computer so no connectivity issues. To drop it from the ceiling I used 1/2″ black steel pipe and flanges.
   
   
   
   
   
   One of the biggest things to me though is the club data that I get from this sensor. It uses dual high speed infrared camera technology to capture a full range of precision data with the ball of your choice. With the included stickers added to the club face, it provides the swing speed, club path, face angle and impact location which has helped tremendously with analyzing my swing and what needs to be fixed. Plus the high speed camera provides a slo-mo replay of the impact. (So me and my hack buddies really have no excuses after a bad shot )
   
   

7. Gaming Computer and Software

   The computer that you need will depend on the software that you are running. Some software such as E6 only requires a Nvidia 1070 Graphics Card or equivalent to run in 1080 which you may have a PC or laptop that already has this in it. Since we have a 4K projector I wanted to go with the highest resolution software out there to get the best performance. After doing a ton of research I ultimately I landed on GSPro. I loved the realistic 4K graphics and ball physics but what really sold me was the company. The fact that they are continually rolling out updates and improving the game was something I wanted to see.
   
   
   
   For a great 4k experience they recommend the RTX 3080 GPU and 16GB memory. To meet and exceed those requirements I picked up this gaming computer from Newegg with a 3080ti GPU in it. Unfortunately it looks like they are sold out at the time I’m writing this so here are some other 3080ti options. I will say that this computer has worked flawlessly and my son is pumped because now he can use it for gaming (when I’m not playing golf )
   
   

8. Controls

   You can definitely use the mouse and keyboard when making adjustments to the game. But after seeing this control box from Roxor Golf, I had to have one. This controller, once the game is launched, will make it easy for others to control the game with the intuitive buttons.
   
   

9. Other Uses

   
   Golf simulators require a lot of space. The good thing is that they don’t have to be used for only golf. We are able to digitally shrink our projector area and cast a 16:9 viewing area for things like TV or movie viewing and even gaming! To make this happen we ran the HDMI from the computer to an AV receiver before the connection to the projector. Then, we connect speakers and through another HDMI input we connected an Apple TV.
   
   
   
   Movies through Apple TV:
   
   
   
   Live TV from Apple TV:
   
   
   
   Gaming on the PC:
   
   
   
   Driving simulator on the PC:
   
   

Time needed: 2 days.

1. Cutting the Rails

   
   
   
   
   

2. Assembling the Rails

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

3. Assembling the Legs

   
   Note: When I built my table, rather than using the 2×4 supports at the top I went with a piece of plywood which ended up a little wobbly. Below, the plans have been modified for more rigidity.
   
   
   
   

4. Assembling the Legs

   

5. Assembling the Base

   
   
   

6. Finishing Top and Base

   
   To make sure you end up with the best results make sure to prep the surface before staining. For this, I used DAP Plastic Wood-X to fill any joints, knots and imperfections before sanding smooth.
   
   
   
   We then applied a semi-tranparent tintable deck stain (in the color slate) which I like working with because it help tone down the variations in color that you would normally see when staining pine, and it has the water proofing built in, making it an easy one step process.
   
   

7. Installing the Top

   
   
   
   
   

8. Attaching the Rails

   
   
   
   
   

9. Adding Trim (Optional)

   

Time needed: 3 days.

1. Remove the Rails

   
   Depending on your pool table the rails may come off in pieces or all as one like ours. Just remove the bolts from below to free the rails.
   
   
   
   Remove the felt by cutting with a utility knife and prying out the feather boards. Remove all staples and hanger bolts as well.
   
   

2. Cutting New Rails

   
   I used my old rails as a template by first measuring the angles and matching them to the cuts made on the new, red oak, 2×6 rails. The angles you should be matching are the top angle, keeping in mind the length of cut on the rails (cushion mounts to this), and the bottom angle (matches cushion) which returns to the table.
   
   
   
   I also cut a dado to match the old one which will be used to install the fabric to cover the bumpers.
   
   
   
   I then traced the pockets and rough cut them with a jigsaw. The pocket holes are cut on a slight angle to help accept the pockets.
   
   
   
   I finished the pocket holes by matching the compound angled cuts of the old rails on the miter saw. This is an important angle to try to match up.
   
   

3. Joining the Rails

   
   I cut the rails down to their final length based on the old rails as a template and joined them together by gluing and clamping the rails and securing with 1-1/4″ hardwood pocket screws.
   
   
   
   I then filled in any imperfections with DAP Plastic Wood-X which dries to a nice natural color.
   
   

4. Installing the Hanger Bolts

   
   I first removed the existing skirting to make things a little easier.
   
   
   
   I then located the rails on the table and marked the hanger bolt locations.
   
   
   
   Using an appropriate sized drill bit, I predrilled the hanger bolt locations.
   
   
   
   And installed the hanger bolts by cinching two nuts together and screwing the course threaded end into the rails with a socket.
   
   

5. Building the Legs

   
   For the legs we wanted to bring them out to the corners. The problem was that this is where the pockets are. So I decided to build 8 inch boxes out of plywood. The boards were all mitered on a 45 and glued together with DAP Weldwood Wood Glue for a strong hold.
   
   
   
   
   I laid down two strips of painters tape and placed the boards on that to help hold the miters. Then finished off the joints with a pin nailer.
   
   

6. Finishing

   
   The red in the red oak really stands out when you apply a finish to it. So we opted to bleach all the wood. This process consists of wiping the wood with peroxide and then applying a lye mixture and allowing to bleach in the sun. The mixture is 3 teaspoons of lye in 1 quart of water. After it drys, you wipe it with clean water to remove any residue and apply a wipe on polyurethane for protection.
   
   

7. Installing Cushions

   
   For a permanent bond I installed the cushions with DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. This is applied to both the cushion, and the rail where it mounts, and allowed to cure until both pieces were tacky. I was able to salvage the old cushions which were still in good condition.
   
   
   
   Then it can be pressed into place for an instant bond on contact.
   
   
   
   The bumpers I purchased on Amazon were also installed with contact cement. They are kind of like rubber end caps for the cushions and recess into the pocket. Once bonded we trimmed with a utility knife and eased the edges with a rotary tool.
   
   

8. Installing Sights

   
   Sights are the dots on the side of the pool table that help you line up your shot. The old sights were a pearl inlay that I didn’t think would go well with the new style of the table so I opted to cut discs out of 1/2″ brass rod.
   
   
   
   I then sanded them down, marked the locations based on the old rails and used a 1/2″ forstner bit to drill a hole the same depth as the discs. I checked the depth by placing the discs and removing with a piece of tape before adhering.
   
   
   
   The discs then get bonded into place using DAP RapidFuse All-Purpose Adhesive.
   
   
   
   

9. Recovering the Table and Cushions

   
   In the beginning I thought “I going to have to get a professional to recover this table” but after rebuilding the entire table and watching enough YouTube videos my confidence was pretty high, so I ordered some charcoal pool felt on Amazon and went for it.
   
   I started by installing the felt on the table. Stapling the middle of one end and stretching both sides toward the pockets. I then did the same at the other end getting the felt nice in tight, lengthwise. After that I moved on to the sides, making sure to staple every 3/4″ or so and pull evenly.
   
   
   
   After trimming the felt I cut 3 slits in each pocket and pulled tight, stapling below. This part of the recovering process wasn’t hard.
   
   
   
   Then it was on to the rails. The part I was most nervous about. I highly recommend watching as much content on this process before beginning. I started by laying the fabric upside down and hammering the featherboard into the dado to secure the felt to the top of the rail.
   
   
   
   Before completely seating the featherboard I trimmed the excess felt off.
   
   
   
   I completed hammering the featherboard in with a scrap piece of wood.
   
   
   
   I then flipped the rails over, wrapped the cushions, pulled the felt tight in the middle and placed one staple there. I then stapled the corners of the side pockets getting the fold and tension just right.
   
   
   
   After pulling the felt tight and stapling back to the middle, I moved on to the corner pockets which just get stretched around the corner and stapled tight. Then finish out the rail back to the middle, stapling about 3/4″ apart and trimming the excess. Sounds easier than it is to get it right, but this isn’t a recovering tutorial.
   
   
   
   Flip the rails back over and insert the hanger bolts into the holes on the table.
   
   
   
   Secure the rails from below with washers, nuts and socket wrench.
   
   

10. Installing the Legs

    
    I first placed the legs at the outside corners of the table such that the pockets would recess into them. Then I secured the beams to the legs with wood screws temporarily.
    
    
    
    We then unbolted and removed the old legs from the table.
    
    
    
    Using a drill I drilled holes for through the beam and into the new legs.
    
    
    
    Then, using the old bolts I secured the beams to the new legs.
    
    

11. Aprons & Pockets

    
    The final pieces of the table were the aprons. These were ripped to 6-1/2″ which is enough to cover the side pockets and secured with four 1-1/4″ pocket screws at each end and 90 degree clips in the middle.
    
    
    
    I then placed the upgraded leather pockets and secured with black tack nails.